Soccer Madness!
One curious fact about life in New York is how provincial it is, despite -- or perhaps because of -- its international, comsopolitan nature. It is a truth universally acknowledged that, with so much going on here, there is nothing that can happen anywhere else in the world that could possibly matter much. That's the general operating principle. Plus, people are busy. They don't really have time to worry about what's happening in London or Paris or Peroria. Even if something was happening there which mattered; and as we know, that could not possibly be the case.
The single happy exception to this rule I have observed is the World Cup soccer tournament, now taking place in...oh, Germany somewhere. The little hipster boutique around the corner from me (where "Peace is always in fashion," as its sign explains) suddenly had a display window full of Brazilian themes. Rectangular cookies frosted with the Brazilian flag appeared in an otherwise sedate Upper East Side cafe. Wherever you go, slightly less busy than usual people are gathered around TV screens and are likely to be wearing their national colors, too, in every possible nationality imaginable.
My favorite Uzbek barbers installed two flat-screen TVs next to the mirrors, where soccer is on morning till night. A light-hearted story in The New York Times captured the scene at a tire shop the day of the Poland-Ecuador game in the Polish enclave of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where the owner was Ecudorean, his employees mostly Latino, his customers mostly Polish. Everyone stopped changing tires and started drinking beer with eyes glued to the set. The South Koreans were going wild in Koreatown, which is near the Empire State Building, in the 30's.
My crabby neighbor, whom I suspect of being Belgian, even spoke to me; that's when I knew the city had gone crazy. It happened this way: I left the apartment at the same time he did next door, and noticed that he was carrying an enormous box. "Let me get the door for you," I said, forgetting for a moment I was no longer in the South and that polite gestures usually scare people here. I opened the door for him. Since there was another door down the hall from that one, I thought, in for a penny, in for a pound, and walked on ahead and opened the other door, too.
"Where is your husband from?" he asked me.
"Poland," I said.
"Oh... he must be very sad. I am sorry." Poland had just lost to Germany, on the heels of its humilating defeat by Ecuador.
"Oh, well," I said, too surprised at being spoken to by the crabby neighbor to know what to say. "Losing to Germany...nothing new." I was thinking of the larger historical context, but it was a safe bet it applied to soccer too.